It was a beautiful sunny day in Ocean City, Maryland. Me and a girl named Loren I just me decided to go surfing. The waves that day were great, perfect for surfing.
So Loren and I went and got our wet suits on. Lorens was black and green and mine was black and blue.
So finally we were ready to go surfing. After the first few waves we began to “learn the ocean.” Which meant that we figured out the sets the waves came in. And in this case there would be four small waves, then a huge wave.
Everything was going great until my stupidity got us into trouble.
I had forgotten to follow one of the most important rules ever: always pay attention to your surroundings!
I had become totally oblivious to everything around me. While we were waiting for the fith wave we had drifted very far away from the shore. The people on shore looked like little tiny dots to me and Loren.
Being that far away from shore made me pretty scared. I knew that we could paddle back, but I was still scared.
And just when I thought things couldn’t get worse, this huge monsterous wave was building up behind us. You see this was not your average wave, this wave was at least six feet above our head, and it was getting bigger.
I yelled in horror “start paddeling as fast as you can!” Loren (I think) was so horrified she couldn’t respond.
So we started paddeling franticly trying to get away from the wave, but we were to slow. The wave crashed right on by back, throwing me off my board. And the worst thing about it was, the fin cut my café in the process.
When I caught sight of Loren I motioned her over. Luckily for her, she was still on her board.
“What happened to your leg!” she said when she saw it bleeding.
"The fin on my board cut it, when it threw me off." I answered in pain. The salt water was burning my leg. It felt like little needles popping into my skin.
At last we spotted my surf board. Loren helped me onto her surfboard, and we started to paddle over to it.
Once I got onto my surf board, little sets of waves started to roll in. They really made a big difference, by pushing us closer and close to shore. Finally my feet were able to touch the sand, which felt like sandpaper rubbing against my feet.
Loren and I ran to our parents who said when they saw us "Man! Did you see that wave a minute ago. It was huge!"
"Yes. Yes we did." I answered blankley.